Liguria, facing the Tyrrhenian Sea, forms an imposing arc, with the Gulf of Genoa in its center. It is a mountainous and hilly region, which includes part of the Maritime Alps and the Ligurian Apennines, whose the spurs plunge almost everywhere into the sea, leaving scant space to the plains, which form a narrow coastline. Here landscapes of great beauty can be admired. The region is divided in two sections: the Riviera di Ponente (to the west), from Ventimiglia to Genoa, and the Riviera di Levante (to the east), from Genoa to La Spezia. The terminal strip of the Riviera di Levante is known as “Le Cinque Terre” (the Five Lands) and still today represents a beautiful example of intact landscape.
The province's capital, Genoa, is the area's largest city by a long shot, an ancient center of commerce, and one of history's great maritime powers. The coast east of Genoa, the Riviera di Levante, is more ruggedly beautiful than the Riviera Ponente, less developed, and hugged by mountains that plunge into the sea. Four of the coast's most appealing towns are within a few miles of one another, clinging to the shores of the Monte Portofino Promontory just east of Genoa: Camogli, Santa Margherita Ligure, Rapallo, and little Portofino.
Anywhere you travel in this region, you will never be far from the sea. A truism, but a bit misleading, because seafood is not as plentiful as you might assume here in the heavily fished north. What is plentiful are acciughe (anchovies), and once you try them fresh and marinate (marinated in lemon) as part of an antipasto, you will never underestimate the culinary merits of this little fish again. More noticeable than fish are the many fresh vegetables that grow in patches clinging to the hillsides and find their way into tarts (the torta pasqualina is one of the most elaborate, with umpteen layers of pastry; some restaurants serve it year-round) and sauces, none more typical of Liguria than pesto, a simple and simply delicious concoction of basil, olive oil, pine nuts, and parmigiano ground together in a mortar and pestle (hence the name). It's often used to top trenette: a short, hand-rolled twist of pasta sort of like a 2-inch length of extra-thick spaghetti. Ligurians are also adept at making fast food, and there's no better light lunch or snack than a piece of focaccia, flatbread that's often topped with herbs or olives, or a farinata, a chickpea crepe that's served in wedges. Both are sold in bakeries and at small stands, making it easy to grab a bite before heading out to enjoy the other delights of the region. |
